With British pubs continuing to close at an alarming rate, it is amazing how many still close earlier than they need to. My Oxfordshire local, The Pear Tree Inn, in the village of Hook Norton, home to the famed brewery of the same name, has been in a state of near failure for three years. Some of this is the brewery's fault, determined as it seems to be to charge rent that supposedly reflects the value of the property, which would be about £600,000 if it were a house. But it isn't. And what's more the value is purely notional. Hook Norton Brewery has owned it for about a century. All it costs is the upkeep, and even then some of that falls on the tenant.
The last good landlord, the remarkable Ian Miller, was forced out two years ago by rising rents. He was replaced by a genial landlady, but at only 20, she had no real idea how to run a rural local where the average age of customers was well over 40. Badly booked music acts, which drove as many regulars away as they attracted passing trade newcomers, plus a policy of closing at 11.00pm or midnight at the latest (when previous landlord had been open to 1.30am) meant falling revenue and falling custom. As a result she started closing earlier, which meant even fewer regulars. Several weeks ago she gave up and fled.
Now there is a new tenant, but he also has adopted an 11.00-12.00 closing time. This means once again that many regulars who had drifted away and like a late evening drink, are not drifting back. He will do well over the summer (if we have one) because the pub has a big garden. But come the long nights of the autumn and winter, which makes up most of the British year, he will lack for the late night trade that once kept the pub alive.
I see the sorrowful cycle beginning all over again. How can pub tenants hope to survive if they don't give the customers what they want?
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